Spring Beach Trip to Duck North Carolina, Beach Birds and Restaurants

Early April I slipped away to enjoy a week at the Beach with a dear friend. It was a perfect time of year before the Summer rush. I left my new greenhouse behind at a crucial time. I had my seedlings coming up in the greenhouse but it was pretty calm in the garden so it ended up a good decision.

The weather was generally warm enough in Duck, North Carolina to get outside every day. We booked a house ocean view with a hot tub. We even sat on the beach a few days but most of our time was spent hiking or reclining on the decks. I even found some time to rotate between two books and we attempted to read aloud one of my favorite books, The Devil in the White City, but it ended up being so very time consuming. We turned on the TV only once, the very last evening, because we were packing and trying to down leftovers.

The sunrises were glorious and our hikes were peaceful. We checked out a nearby trail, the Pine Island Audubon Nature Trail and made it up to Corolla several times to walk the supposed "wild horse areas". A lot of poo views but no ponies in sight. We headed out one day over to Manteo to visit The Elizabethan Gardens. 

As always, there were plenty of things to see and do. We had the best food ever and my fav coffee shop with enormous biscuits, Treehouse Cafe, had just opened for the season. A word to the wise, wait until April 1 to go to Duck as many restaurants do not fire up until then! Missing out on all that good food would be so sad. Our favorite found restaurant was NC Coast Bar and Grill. We discovered their wonderful beignets so had to hit it twice, once for a dinner sunset. An interesting phenomenon is that the sun rises only over the beach and the sun sets only over the sound side (the outer banks is a barrier island strip having 2 open sides). If your beach house is situated on the ocean side you have to go over to the sound side to see a sun set so restaurants on that side are busy during that period of the day.

Curiously we didn't see any Ducks in Duck but enjoyed many Cormorants and my favorite seabird the Pelican. We had numerous flyovers of Pelicans and even saw a few Dolphins. There were not many bird sightings in the forests we hiked but my Merlin bird sound identification app on my phone picked up many different calls. I was surprised to see quite a few butterflies during this time of year.

It's never long enough but my greenhouse and messy gardens were calling me home.

Plan a trip somewhere this year, have some fun!

~Rebecca

 

Levy Lions discovered at Little Biltmore in North Carolina

The Levy Lions with Shields gazing down on tiered gardens.

My mother recently told me that when I was a little girl I loved to put together puzzles (something that I still enjoy). I also love suspense and surprises, so searching for the Levy Lions was a fascination. When I began my quest to find the Levy Lion statues I never dreamed that it would take 5 years to track down 4 massive lion statues. I began to fear the worst as time has a way of eroding and destroying history. In the early 1900's Charlottesville photographer Rufus Holsinger photographed the lion statues many times, over many years, at Monticello. Big, heavy statues don't just disappear.

Amazing manes make this pair unique.

If you have been following my quest, I know you are relieved to know that all four lions have been accounted for! I had a feeling someone would eventually stumble upon my blog and contact me with a lead, and that's exactly what happened. A woman who lives in California claimed her parents had the pair of Levy lions with shields. The history passed down to them by the prior owners of their estate was that in the 1920's the lions were pulled from a storage area that held Levy family items. This certainly lines up with the 1928 removal of Levy items from Monticello. It was even rumored that the lions were won in a poker game! Who acquired the lions and where they were being stored is still a mystery. They could have been purchased at auction and warehoused or removed by a Levy heir prior to auction.

Historic Holsinger photos (1 and 3) vs current photos (2 and 4)

I still had to authenticate the lions. After several fake lion scares, I was suspect. As luck would have it, I was able to do a little online research because the historic home where the lions reside is currently listed for sale and there are several photos of the pair of lions. I knew the second I saw the lions that they were authentic but I proceeded to create a side by side comparison of historic and current photos. One of my favorite historic photos is of the back of the lion which outlines every muscle and details the lovely mane. Another match was the cursive "L" inscribed on the front shield. I've seen several without any inscription so to find anything on the shield is rare. The only discrepancy is time and wear. The lions are missing a few teeth but everything else matches up!

Massive circular fountain bowl & record red Maple on right

The lions guard a historic home and grounds that has an extensive history. Secluded on 28 acres of solitude in virgin forests, Chanteloup is on the North Carolina registry of historic homes. The estate was built in 1840 for a french Count and Countess and has been referred to as Little Biltmore. Two sisters bought Chanteloup around 1900 and hired famed designer Frederick Olmsted, the father of American Landscape Architecture. The Norton sisters knew the Vanderbilt's who were planning to build their estate in Virginia until they visited Chanteloup and fell in love with North Carolina. To note, a state record holding Ornamental Maple tree is on the property.

Leonard and the Levy Lion

Not only was the trip to see the lions amazing, the property owners, Linda and Leonard celebrated this event with us by providing lunch on the veranda. I could gaze upon the lions and the Olmsted gardens and watch the birds dip and dive down in the valley below. We were lucky as it was the first warm Spring day where you could actually sit outside.

Beautiful wall mural painted by Leonard

Linda has an eye for color which is tastefully reflected in the home with updated features and decor but in keeping with the historic charm, period pieces have been collected. Over the years many renovations have preserved the home for future generations to enjoy. The property would make a wonderful museum or wedding reception venue. Linda and Leonard so hate to leave Chanteloup, having committed 20+ years restoring their beautiful home. Even the lions could be sold if the right party would come along. Maybe it's time for them to be reunited with a Levy heir? Time will tell, just please let me know the new owner!

I can't think of a better spot for the lions and am happy they have owners that appreciate them as I do.

~Rebecca 

Rush to get to the Levy Lions, quick detour to the North Carolina Arboretum

NC Arboretum, up with the dog walkers

Rushing as fast as we could to hopefully end the quest to find the missing pair of Levy Lions, we were thwarted once again. Attempting to get to our destination before sunset we still had another 30 miles to go. We were not going to make it and after a horribly exhausting day getting stuck in traffic for hours, we were forced to grab a hotel room at 9 pm in Asheville, North Carolina.

Lovely yellow Magnolia tree

I blindly booked a room on my phone based on good reviews. I had no idea where it was located - just somewhere in Asheville. Missteps snowballed as we attempted to check into the wrong hotel but miraculously the right hotel was conveniently 4 miles from the North Carolina Arboretum! Exhaustion was not going to keep me in bed the next morning and we arrived when the Arboretum doors opened at 8 am!

NC Arboretum Visitors Center lined with tulips & ranunculus

We were scheduled to see the lion statues at noon so we had a few hours to roam the tranquil forests and landscaped grounds! I'm not sure which I was more excited about, lions or trees. After all this is the NC Arboretum, this is not a forest you just drive-by without stopping. I can't believe that I had originally planned our trip to do such a ghastly thing!

It was a tad bit early in the season as many plants were only thinking about unfurling leaves and bursting open blossoms. But no matter the time of year, there is always something interesting to see; mountain views, majestic trees, thick forests, babbling brooks, stonework, and even bonsai plantings.

Frederick Olmsted,father of American Landscape Architecture

The Arboretum is located at the end of the road after leaving fits of traffic and shopping malls which makes this peaceful place even more special. Each day our protected forests are being walled in by roads and businesses, or just plain greed. In Virginia we have protesters camping out in equally as majestic trees to stop pipelines from destroying privately owned land and our national forests. Imminent domain is used to seize ANY property for "justifiable public good". These last three words can be construed to suit business interests and PROFITS.

Prominent sculpture of butterfly wings and chrysalis

I wonder if those in the business of tree destruction have a soul? The feeling one gets in quiet places among spring ephemerals, walls of trees, and trickling brooks is worth fighting to preserve. Even 20 years ago I thought it unimaginable that our national forests would fall prey to corporate greed. Times have changed and people are nearly going to war to save what soon could all be trashed. Make note, the door has OPENED WIDER.

Tiered gardens guarded by Levy Lions, designed by F. Olmsted

I was sad to leave the magical forest environ but a short drive took us to an amazing spot where the Levy Lions have stood waiting to be found for all to read about. Sunday I will reveal the amazing details about the lions!

~Rebecca